Monday, October 20, 2008

Crossing over........the Sunshine Coast to Vancouver Island

Kent's Beach at Saltery Bay to Parksville

August 27 - Wednesday - Lots of clouds but see that blue spot to the west..............a hopeful sign of things to come. At the campground last night we were told about a really big hill just north of Kent' s Beach RV Park. We decided to get an early start so we had a Clif Bar for breakfast and headed out.


That is a smile of relief. The hill was indeed long and hard. We were really glad we didn't do it last night in the rain!!! We stopped for a "real" breakfast on the other side.

Seems like toilet "art" is universal.


This is the entrance to the Powell River Salmon Society's Lang Creek spawning channel and counting and sorting facility. It was pretty early in the day yet so no one was around. The signs on the outside of the facility said that pink, coho, chinook, and chum salmon all spawn in this river sytem. It was a nice place to take a break.

One thing we discovered yesterday going down one of the hills was how worn the brakes were on Doug's bike. Powell River was the next available bike shop, so we dropped off his bike and walked around town. We still hoped to make the noon ferry over to Vancouver Island.

We didn't get far as this very pleasant organic grocery/deli/coffee shop was right next door.
It was the perfect place to enjoy the sunshine, a cup of coffee and a cup of chai tea. We also picked up a bag of locally dried apples that were quite tasty.


Mural based on some historic photographs from the local museum.

We barely made it on the ferry. We were that last ones on board and had to wind our way amongst the vehicles to get to the bike parking spots at the front of the ferry. Turns out that Pascal, Cathy and Zoe were only about 10 minutes ahead of us. We would have had to wait 4 hours for the next ferry. Whew! So the sound of the day was the ferry horn.

This is the Powell River paper mill. According to tourist brochures it is the largest one in the world. It is just a few miles north of town. About 13 miles north of Powell River is the town of Lund which is the very northern extent of Highway 101.

There were a bunch of us two wheel types on this ferry. The usual protocol is they let us off first so you want to be ready. Turns out that this will be the last time we see Pascal, Cathy and Zoe so a bit of a sad departure. We wish them well with their journey along with our phone numbers and email in case they need any help on their way through Oregon. Zoe gave us a big hug which needed no translation.

We decided to make it a short day (30 miles) and stay in Comox which is a very nice little town a few miles from the ferry terminal. While looking at our guidebook next to a Tim Horton's bagel place, a petite, elderly woman approached to ask if we needed directions. She said she used to be a cyclist too and really missed it. It was a delightful chat.

Filberg Park was full of these tiny deer, none of whom seemed to care that humans were wandering all over the place. The park is the estate of one of the founding families of the area.
A rather unique use of drift wood.
A more traditional use of wood just across the lawn.

This is the main house on the estate. Alas.......we got there just as they were closing up so didn't get to see much of the inside. We did make it the Comox Museum and their very new library as well. We went down to the marina after dinner but it started to rain so we went back to the motel, watched the Weather Network and tried to figure out if we were still going to make it to Port Angeles by Saturday given our slow progress so far.....130 cumulative bike miles.

August 28 - Thursday - O happy surprise....no rain on the horizon as we started the day. Today we truly start heading south on the Pacific Coast Route. We passed this tribal center in between Comox and Courtenay on our way to breakfast.

These are the "Circle Routes" set up to help tourists explore British Columbia. They are really geared towards people traveling by car on day or weekend trips but we are actually following most of the Coastal route so the information was helpful to us as well.

We stopped in Union Bay to check out the historic Post Office.

While picking up some Powerade in the store just down the street, Doug talked to the owner of this bike. Turns out that he had built it himself and added the little electric motor "to help with the hills". Unfortunately he went into the store before we thought to get his picture.

The road so far has been gently rolling with good shoulders most of the time, a nice change from yesterday's ride. It is still cool but we have only had about 10 drops of rain though a little bit of a headwind. Nothing like Wyoming though!

It was low tide all morning so we saw lots of activity in the many oyster beds as well as many people digging clams.

The brown llama was quite the character, making sure we knew that he was the head honcho in that corral. The headwind was replaced by a long gradual hill but we made it here in time for a leisurely lunch at Deez Pub and Grill. The floral display beneath this sign was quite modest given the recognitions listed above.

Parksville was our resting place for the night. There are lots of campgrounds and RV parks along this section of Highway 19A but a bed and a warm room sounded really good after all day sweating away in the cool breeze.

This was at the entrance to the town...a much more fitting floral display. After really long, hot showers we took off on foot to explore a little. It started to rain not long into our walk, so dinner at a convenient Italian restaurant seemed in order. It was still a little wet as we made our way to the Community Park to take in the annual sand castle contest.

It was well worth the effort. These were truly works of art.



This is one of our favorites..........the monsters in the bedroom.
The teams are given 20 tons of sand and need to use all of it in their creation while staying in 30 square feet. Soloists get 10 tons of sand. The sculptures are on display for several weeks.


They are held together by being sprayed with a dilute mixture of white glue and water....... just in case you are wondering how they have survived all the rain this past week.

Another favorite. Visitors get to vote for their favorites by putting a ballot in nearby boxes.

This very elaborate minature golf course was right across the street from our motel. It also had an ice cream shop so it was essential that we wander though the place.

Now he can't get into any trouble! Not that golf is his game anyway!

Thursday, September 18, 2008

From the new to the familiar........Parksville to Victoria, BC

The Big PictureMore detail if you desire.



August 29 - Friday - We stopped at this store in Parksville for some supplemental breakfast only to be greeted by this tank full of live crabs and lobsters. Several seemed intent on escaping. There was something amusing about seeing this first thing in the morning.

It was a cool and calm morning with moderate terrain. We entered Nanaimo about 10:00. This sign left us with no doubt about our location.


Many things touched our funny bone today and this "Sushi Eh" sign tickled Doug's as we navigated our way towards downtown.

Fortunately they have a very nice bike trail that covered most of the route through town. The E&N is also the name of the train that runs up the coast from Victoria and parallels a part of the bike trail. It's whistle was our sound of the day.


This 81 years young man, Don, ran into us just after we joined the trail. He offered to guide us downtown since he lives there and needed to get home anyway so he wouldn't be late for his afternoon golf date. We really enjoyed his company but had to part ways just a few blocks from his condo when Doug's rear tire went flat.

This mural commemorates the sinking of this 366 foot destroyer escort in 1997 to become an artificial reef just east of Nanaimo.

We made it to the harbor in time for lunch then went looking for the museum that was listed in the tourist info. After a couple of circles around and climbing to the top of a small hill we found it. Except that it had moved..........to a location we had probably passed twice during our search!

At least there was a good view of the harbor from the top of the hill.

Jordan was quite helpful and let us stow our bike luggage behind the desk while we visited the very brand new museum. That was very comforting since a couple of locals told us that it might disappear if we left it outside.

Bathtub Race - a local tradition


Some local "celebrities" whose product, logging equipment, we just happen to have seen in action. Jazz singer, Diana Krall, is also a native of the area.


A local First Nation's history exhibit.


This carving was hung in the lobby. Ironically, we had just watched the First Nation's carver working on this exact piece during a TV program the night before.


Forest products is big part of the economy of the area.
Also note the ferry on the horizon.

Nanaimo was not kind to Doug's tires. The sidewall was split and Doug had to use our folding tire which didn't want to stay seated. It took an hour which is definitely longer than our usual 15 minute quick fix. Fortunately the shoulder was extremely wide at this spot where the bike trail joined the highway.


It was a good thing we had decided ahead of time to stop in Ladysmith for the evening since we didn't get there until 5:00 and the motel only had 2 rooms left. We took the kitchette room complete with pink stove and really funky table and chairs. Quaint and quite clean.


Pizza was on order. It was actually a take out place but they let us use this little table on the front porch to eat since we had walked several blocks to get there.

After dinner we took in the outdoor museum (Heritage Artifact Route)
that is all along the main street.

This little guy insisted that we take his picture......
and it had to be done while he was on top of the hydrant.

His sister didn't want to be left out of the action either.


Just in case you were wondering about our latitude........It made a fine stop for stocking up on Powerade for the next day. It actually stayed dry all day today despite the forecast.......a quite pleasant surprise indeed.


August 30 - Saturday - The motel provided a food voucher to this very nice coffee shop across the street called "In the Bean Time"......good food, good coffee, and good service. Then we were off into the bright cool morning.

We took Road 1A to keep us off Highway 1. It was being reconstructed but we decided it was worth going slow on the dirt which turned out to be well packed the whole way. Didn't have much traffic either.



We would have missed this roadside art if we had taken the highway!

Our "off-highway" route took us along the bay for awhile. We are always impressed with the madrone trees that they grow up here.

This little town is full of art and was quite the popular place on a late summer Saturday morning.


This elaborate water feature/sculpture documents a locally famous snipe hunt.


From here we headed toward Duncan. We should have known better than to follow a road that looked very straight on the map. It went straight up hill and down dale. After a couple of those we opted for the highway and its more moderate grade to get us to Duncan. We were there a few years ago (2005) so didn't take any pictures of it this trip. We can give a good report though, on Coffee Moon and their beverages and fruit bars which made a nice little breakfast #2.


We stopped in Cowichan Bay for lunch at the Rock Cod Cafe. It was probably the best clam chowder in a bread bowl that we've ever had, so good it deserved a picture! It was so filling that we couldn't eat it all. It also made the legs feel like lead when we had to climb the 10% grade to get out of town!

We planned on catching the 1:50 ferry in Mill Bay and thought we would make it with about 20 minutes to spare. Then we discovered that the ferry terminal was 3 miles from the intersection that we were using to calculate our time. Fortunately it was mostly flat (except for that darn little hill at the end!!) so we put the pedal to the metal arriving just as the cars were unloading off the arriving ferry. Whew!

This ferry is quite small compared to the others we've used this trip.

Donna is about midship checking out the map.

This gentleman spent the 30 minute trip across sketching the ferry.


The area between Brentwood Bay (the ferry terminal) and Victoria is quite lovely, rural and agricultural. We followed the bike route along Wallace Drive and then the Interurban Rail Trail most of the way down the Saanich Peninsula. We also heard our sound of the day as jets taking off from Victoria Airport passed overhead in big contrast to the otherwise very quiet countryside.
Our home for the evening....Fort Victoria RV Park. We have stayed here on previous trips as it makes a stay in Victoria a little easier on the pocketbook. And we love visiting Victoria.




Doug and Doug were chatting when Donna returned from the shower. He and his wife are from Williams Lake, BC. He is a retired elementary school principal who happens to like photography and forestry so they had a lot to chat about. A little later a family from Germany pulled in next to us. Teenage son Jonah came over to visit. They had been on the road for a month touring all over British Columbia and were headed back home in a couple of days.